I think it's unfair to trash DW so wantonly...just because someone uses it certainly doesn't imply that they don't understand the back end of their site.
IMHO, DW would be very difficult to master without an understanding of the code. I know HTML like the back of my hand, but usually use DW just to save time. It ensures I close my tags, and don't put silly typos in. And if I do, it makes them apparent to me. Admittedly, I probably spend about half my DW time in code-view making adjustments right to the code, which is why I say it would be tough for someone who doesn't know the code to really master DW.
I started out on Notepad, then went to HomeSite and eventually ended up with DW as Macromedia has pretty well incorporated the best of HomeSite into DW MX2004.
For really quick changes, I still pop Notepad open because it's fastest.